Friday, July 31, 2009
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Update on Dinners and Recent Plan B’s and C's
Update on Dinners:
Yesterday we had a wonderful dinner with our UN supervisor (soon to be our academic director at Arcadia) and his lovely family. They stuffed us with sweet potatoes, skewered pork and fish, plantains and Cantonese rice. I realized halfway through dinner that my face hurt from smiling so much. It felt so comfortable to be sitting together with a family. We told them tales of our inability to cook and they took pity on us and sent us home with leftovers and an open invitation to their kitchen for informal lessons (especially Mondays and Thursdays when we are without electricity.)
The night before we were cooked for by our new dear friend Ben. Spaghetti Bolognese made with Kenyan beef (I have NEVER had better beef- supposedly this is second best in the world, we were told Argentinian beef takes first?) and garlic bread and green salad! These are delicacies here, the meat is expensive and the salad is hard to clean. We eat most of our vegetables cooked for this reason.
Also, last night Selina pointed out that of the 4 meals we have had prepared for us, 3 of them have been prepared by men! I like Tanzania. :0)
Recent Plan B’s and C’s:
My computer at the UN is still broken. Yesterday it rebooted in the middle of my work 4 times. After 6 unproductive IT visits they came to take my hard drive away today. Plan B, I thought, I will just walk next door to school to use the computers. However, the computers at school were ghosted last night to be cleaned of viruses. Therefore they also do not work today.
So I sit here now drinking hot chocolate (which apparently is not sweet here) trying to decide plan C.
And I pass on to you the phrase I learned today:
Poa basi! (good luck today)
Yesterday we had a wonderful dinner with our UN supervisor (soon to be our academic director at Arcadia) and his lovely family. They stuffed us with sweet potatoes, skewered pork and fish, plantains and Cantonese rice. I realized halfway through dinner that my face hurt from smiling so much. It felt so comfortable to be sitting together with a family. We told them tales of our inability to cook and they took pity on us and sent us home with leftovers and an open invitation to their kitchen for informal lessons (especially Mondays and Thursdays when we are without electricity.)
The night before we were cooked for by our new dear friend Ben. Spaghetti Bolognese made with Kenyan beef (I have NEVER had better beef- supposedly this is second best in the world, we were told Argentinian beef takes first?) and garlic bread and green salad! These are delicacies here, the meat is expensive and the salad is hard to clean. We eat most of our vegetables cooked for this reason.
Also, last night Selina pointed out that of the 4 meals we have had prepared for us, 3 of them have been prepared by men! I like Tanzania. :0)
Recent Plan B’s and C’s:
My computer at the UN is still broken. Yesterday it rebooted in the middle of my work 4 times. After 6 unproductive IT visits they came to take my hard drive away today. Plan B, I thought, I will just walk next door to school to use the computers. However, the computers at school were ghosted last night to be cleaned of viruses. Therefore they also do not work today.
So I sit here now drinking hot chocolate (which apparently is not sweet here) trying to decide plan C.
And I pass on to you the phrase I learned today:
Poa basi! (good luck today)
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Interview with a Defence Lawyer at ICTR
Eunice, Selina and I managed to get an informal interview with a Defence Lawyer here at the tribunal and we asked him as many questions as we could manage in 30 minutes. I feel there is already much to think about. Below is a summary of the conversation that I found most interesting (and I am sure you can refer to Eun and Lina's blogs for a slightly different take soon- you can only write down so much in an interview without being rude..). I will refer to him as DL since we havent clarified whether he minds this being posted.
DL began practicing as an independent defence lawyer in Paris. Through his connection to another laywer that specialized in refugee law he was given the opportunity to visit Nairobi and Arusha to check out the newly established tribunal. DL referred to international criminal law as a new creation of the Hague and Arusha. He also specified that it was not something he was able to specialize in as a student, it didnt exist then.
At first, the ICTR was going to follow a model more like Nuremburg, where one joint trial would be held for all the accused (hard to imagine now as we sift through the 90 plus names of accused/convicted). According to DL, who became part of the volunteer defence counsel for this reason, there were different ideas on defence strategies. At first, the accused might have claimed that the genocide did not exist, or that the genocide of the Tutsis was actually in defense of a previous genocide of the Hutus. However, DL says no one has used this as a strategy, they have opted instead to appear more reasonable and cooperative with the court by claiming that, "there may have been a genocide, but I was not a part of it" (aka not guilty). He mentioned that a good defence strategy might even be to say that the court of a political body (the U.N.) that did nothing to stop a genocide has no place to judge a person on such a matter, though no one has used this. Regardless, DL believes individual trials have proven to move more quickly in most cases.
When asked how the ICTR might be contributing to reconciliation, DL mentioned the Nuremburg trials once again. It wasn't these that brought reconciliation, though the trials were a very neccesary step in international law. Rather, it was the economic boost that helped bring reconciliation to Europe.
When asked how he reconciles morals with representing the accused, DL emphasized that the defence is crucial to a fair trial as every accused has the right to a defendant. This he percieves as another important aspect in the overall attempt to ease conflict in the region. (The idea that assuring fair trials may limit the amount of later uprisal or backlash between Hutus and Tutsis).
DL compared the ICC to the ICTR and said the two organizations have the same achievements and same difficulties. He didnt go too much beyond that, but I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this statement..
DL began practicing as an independent defence lawyer in Paris. Through his connection to another laywer that specialized in refugee law he was given the opportunity to visit Nairobi and Arusha to check out the newly established tribunal. DL referred to international criminal law as a new creation of the Hague and Arusha. He also specified that it was not something he was able to specialize in as a student, it didnt exist then.
At first, the ICTR was going to follow a model more like Nuremburg, where one joint trial would be held for all the accused (hard to imagine now as we sift through the 90 plus names of accused/convicted). According to DL, who became part of the volunteer defence counsel for this reason, there were different ideas on defence strategies. At first, the accused might have claimed that the genocide did not exist, or that the genocide of the Tutsis was actually in defense of a previous genocide of the Hutus. However, DL says no one has used this as a strategy, they have opted instead to appear more reasonable and cooperative with the court by claiming that, "there may have been a genocide, but I was not a part of it" (aka not guilty). He mentioned that a good defence strategy might even be to say that the court of a political body (the U.N.) that did nothing to stop a genocide has no place to judge a person on such a matter, though no one has used this. Regardless, DL believes individual trials have proven to move more quickly in most cases.
When asked how the ICTR might be contributing to reconciliation, DL mentioned the Nuremburg trials once again. It wasn't these that brought reconciliation, though the trials were a very neccesary step in international law. Rather, it was the economic boost that helped bring reconciliation to Europe.
When asked how he reconciles morals with representing the accused, DL emphasized that the defence is crucial to a fair trial as every accused has the right to a defendant. This he percieves as another important aspect in the overall attempt to ease conflict in the region. (The idea that assuring fair trials may limit the amount of later uprisal or backlash between Hutus and Tutsis).
One of the most thought provoking things he said was this: We need another 100 years of international criminal law before a culture of impunity might be ended and replaced with a culture of human rights. It will take more than just this tribunal to end genocides.
For my classmates especially:DL compared the ICC to the ICTR and said the two organizations have the same achievements and same difficulties. He didnt go too much beyond that, but I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this statement..
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Arusha: a Lesson in Problem Solving or Rolling with the Punches
“I always have a plan B and C, because A never works here.”
-my wise classmate Melissa Martelly
Yesterday we spent a relaxing couple of hours by a beautiful lagoon style pool at Arusha Hotel. Inspired by hunger pangs and a sense of relaxation Eunice and I decided to splurge on a double decker toasted ham and cheese sandwich with brown bread. About 20 minutes later the waiter brought out a covered plate and with a lavish flick of the wrist he revealed… a handful of fried cheese poppers. Our looks of disappointment must have clued him in, and he was very sweet and apologetic. He still didn’t seem to totally understand so we obliged and ate the cheese poppers. Feeling sorry for ourselves and still in the mood to splurge we ordered a slice of their highly lauded apple pie with ice cream. Ten minutes later with another flick of the wrist and a declaration of “apple pie” from our waiter, we found ourselves looking at a brownie and melted ice cream. As it turns out there are a couple people here who don’t totally comprehend the concept of ice cream and had microwaved the whole plate.
We found out later from our friend Ben that there is an ex-pat legend about Arusha Hotel’s kitchen. Waiters write your order and then proceed to tack it onto a roulette board in the back with all of the other orders, whereby the cook does the honor of choosing your fate with a quick spin of the board.
As long as we can laugh, right?
Speaking of laughing, I had an interesting conversation with a woman from Nairobi the other night. She was telling us about the Obama hype in Kenya. Of course, kids are being named after him left and right. The unusual thing is that they are taking all three names: Senator Barack Obama.
-my wise classmate Melissa Martelly
Yesterday we spent a relaxing couple of hours by a beautiful lagoon style pool at Arusha Hotel. Inspired by hunger pangs and a sense of relaxation Eunice and I decided to splurge on a double decker toasted ham and cheese sandwich with brown bread. About 20 minutes later the waiter brought out a covered plate and with a lavish flick of the wrist he revealed… a handful of fried cheese poppers. Our looks of disappointment must have clued him in, and he was very sweet and apologetic. He still didn’t seem to totally understand so we obliged and ate the cheese poppers. Feeling sorry for ourselves and still in the mood to splurge we ordered a slice of their highly lauded apple pie with ice cream. Ten minutes later with another flick of the wrist and a declaration of “apple pie” from our waiter, we found ourselves looking at a brownie and melted ice cream. As it turns out there are a couple people here who don’t totally comprehend the concept of ice cream and had microwaved the whole plate.
We found out later from our friend Ben that there is an ex-pat legend about Arusha Hotel’s kitchen. Waiters write your order and then proceed to tack it onto a roulette board in the back with all of the other orders, whereby the cook does the honor of choosing your fate with a quick spin of the board.
As long as we can laugh, right?
Speaking of laughing, I had an interesting conversation with a woman from Nairobi the other night. She was telling us about the Obama hype in Kenya. Of course, kids are being named after him left and right. The unusual thing is that they are taking all three names: Senator Barack Obama.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
I have dined sufficient... you say you went fishin?
This is Bill, our new English friend. He brought us groceries last night and directions to his house in Essex, so we gave him some Tanzanian cognac (Konyagi).
Here is Miles, from San Fran, showing us how to cook a great dish (we were all sitting on the couch listening to instruction carefully- better than food network!)
Don't worry, we even helped a little! Here's Eun and I cutting up fresh tomatoes and mozzarella.
yum! good company and a long anticipated wonderful dinner! They even brought bread and butter and white wine. And we sliced a mango for dessert.
They left us with the recipe and most of the leftover ingredients, so we are eager to try this on our own. Hooray! One meal we know how to cook here!
My life in Arusha as a comedy
We ate lunch yesterday at “immigration.” We might eat at the bank next week. Apparently these are the cafeterias made for employees of the office that become popular with employees of other offices. Immigration lunch was only 2 bucks.
Our lunch date at immigration was Ishmael from Mauritania. We decided together that if he will take us to mosque, we will take him to church. Somehow we got on the discusion of having children. Selina made things interesting by telling Ishmael, a man whose father is a polygamist from a country with Sharia law and has “many” brothers and sisters, that we didn’t want to have children.
We decided to take advantage of the ICTR gym while we are here. Strangely enough the locker room actually is MADE of what seems to be a UN shipping container. Never thought I would change clothes in one of those. Picture 3 girls doing step aerobics in a covered area with shipping containers on one side and mirrors on the other.
Power in my neighborhood is SCHEDULED to go out from 6:30-10pm every Monday and Thursday night. This ruins a lot of people’s meals. We lost a whole pot of spaghetti. Then we heard about an expensive Kenyan steak gone to waste for being to rare to eat and a 4 course half prepared banquet being left on the power company’s doorstep in frustration.
We have watched 7 episodes of Grey’s Anatomy in the last two nights. So much for pacing ourselves with the only season we have in our possession. You should have heard us when we found out our friend, whose name I have sworn not to give away with reference to this story, informed us he has seasons 2 and 3 just waiting to be loaned out.
We are still really terrible at shopping and cooking here. Thus, my stomach was growling loudly during a visit last night from our new British neighbor and friend, Ben. As we told him the stories of our ridiculous meals and my stomach continued to growl, he kept asking, are you hungry- can I go get you something?? The concern on his face somehow made it more comical that we haven’t been eating “proper” meals.
Around that same time I got a text message from our other British friend who has been amused with our eating predicament, “Do you still want us to come over tomorrow and make you dinner? We will bring everything.” :0) definitely looking forward to that.
Our lunch date at immigration was Ishmael from Mauritania. We decided together that if he will take us to mosque, we will take him to church. Somehow we got on the discusion of having children. Selina made things interesting by telling Ishmael, a man whose father is a polygamist from a country with Sharia law and has “many” brothers and sisters, that we didn’t want to have children.
We decided to take advantage of the ICTR gym while we are here. Strangely enough the locker room actually is MADE of what seems to be a UN shipping container. Never thought I would change clothes in one of those. Picture 3 girls doing step aerobics in a covered area with shipping containers on one side and mirrors on the other.
Power in my neighborhood is SCHEDULED to go out from 6:30-10pm every Monday and Thursday night. This ruins a lot of people’s meals. We lost a whole pot of spaghetti. Then we heard about an expensive Kenyan steak gone to waste for being to rare to eat and a 4 course half prepared banquet being left on the power company’s doorstep in frustration.
We have watched 7 episodes of Grey’s Anatomy in the last two nights. So much for pacing ourselves with the only season we have in our possession. You should have heard us when we found out our friend, whose name I have sworn not to give away with reference to this story, informed us he has seasons 2 and 3 just waiting to be loaned out.
We are still really terrible at shopping and cooking here. Thus, my stomach was growling loudly during a visit last night from our new British neighbor and friend, Ben. As we told him the stories of our ridiculous meals and my stomach continued to growl, he kept asking, are you hungry- can I go get you something?? The concern on his face somehow made it more comical that we haven’t been eating “proper” meals.
Around that same time I got a text message from our other British friend who has been amused with our eating predicament, “Do you still want us to come over tomorrow and make you dinner? We will bring everything.” :0) definitely looking forward to that.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
working for an international genocide tribunal
Since 1994, the International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda has been seeking to end the legacy of impunity associated with genocide and crimes against humanity. There have been somewhere around 40 people tried, and only six people acquitted. Still, after 15 years there are MANY outstanding indictments. The tribunal was supposed to close first in 2007, but even now 11 trials are taking place. How do you shut down a court of law that was established as temporary but has not completed its task?
As interns we have been tasked with several interesting (though tedious, of course) projects. The one we have been working on most immediately is an assessment of a major multifaceted project that attempts to strengthen the impact of the tribunal within Rwanda. This is really important since the ICTR is physically removed from Rwanda and much of the Rwandese population is illiterate and unable to access internet. The financial and narrative report that we produce is to be handed over to the European Union, who has generously funded these activities.
The workload has been interesting since both of our supervisors are now off site and my computer continues to shut off at random intervals. We also had one day last week that the UN network crashed on our floor. The obstacles seem to be an interesting mix of overstretched Tanzanian infrastructure (i.e. power supply) and overly ambitious bureaucratic tactics of a large organization.
Upon frustration with set backs, we have been frequenting the downstairs library and the courtrooms. Last Tuesday we sat in the public gallery for the sentencing of one of the accused; Renzaho. I have never seen anything like it. The man was in front of us, though we sat separated from the courtroom by glass windows, receiving all this information totally straight faced. A couple of times I watched him shake his head in disagreement with the evidence presented- I was just picturing him thinking, no no you got that one wrong. Puts the truth in interesting perspective as you realize that one, the accused was the only one in the courtroom who knew what he had and had not done, and two, that the laws heralded in the court necessarily attempt to get at this knowledge through witnesses. Quite an indirect procedure.
As we watched, Renzaho was convicted of five counts of genocide, murder and rape as crimes against humanity and in regards to the Geneva Conventions. He was sentenced to life in prison for these “blunders”. And we all left the tribunal for lunch. Talk about surreal!
The experience has already generated a lot of questions for me that I am hoping to consider further. For example, I have seen evidence that when someone is brought to the tribunal they are (unfortunately) assumed guilty. The only way they may be acquitted is if the defence can discredit the witnesses (which is potentially easier in the case of genocide as the “good” witnesses are often being threatened and scared into silence). The reversal of the notion of innocent until proven guilty may be a simple issue of humanity. An accusation of genocide is quite heavy compared to theft; it may be difficult for a person to remain objective in the face of such a charge.
As interns we have been tasked with several interesting (though tedious, of course) projects. The one we have been working on most immediately is an assessment of a major multifaceted project that attempts to strengthen the impact of the tribunal within Rwanda. This is really important since the ICTR is physically removed from Rwanda and much of the Rwandese population is illiterate and unable to access internet. The financial and narrative report that we produce is to be handed over to the European Union, who has generously funded these activities.
The workload has been interesting since both of our supervisors are now off site and my computer continues to shut off at random intervals. We also had one day last week that the UN network crashed on our floor. The obstacles seem to be an interesting mix of overstretched Tanzanian infrastructure (i.e. power supply) and overly ambitious bureaucratic tactics of a large organization.
Upon frustration with set backs, we have been frequenting the downstairs library and the courtrooms. Last Tuesday we sat in the public gallery for the sentencing of one of the accused; Renzaho. I have never seen anything like it. The man was in front of us, though we sat separated from the courtroom by glass windows, receiving all this information totally straight faced. A couple of times I watched him shake his head in disagreement with the evidence presented- I was just picturing him thinking, no no you got that one wrong. Puts the truth in interesting perspective as you realize that one, the accused was the only one in the courtroom who knew what he had and had not done, and two, that the laws heralded in the court necessarily attempt to get at this knowledge through witnesses. Quite an indirect procedure.
As we watched, Renzaho was convicted of five counts of genocide, murder and rape as crimes against humanity and in regards to the Geneva Conventions. He was sentenced to life in prison for these “blunders”. And we all left the tribunal for lunch. Talk about surreal!
The experience has already generated a lot of questions for me that I am hoping to consider further. For example, I have seen evidence that when someone is brought to the tribunal they are (unfortunately) assumed guilty. The only way they may be acquitted is if the defence can discredit the witnesses (which is potentially easier in the case of genocide as the “good” witnesses are often being threatened and scared into silence). The reversal of the notion of innocent until proven guilty may be a simple issue of humanity. An accusation of genocide is quite heavy compared to theft; it may be difficult for a person to remain objective in the face of such a charge.
Friday, July 17, 2009
playing free word association
words that come to mind when I think of . . .
old house:
damp, cold, dark, cows, mt. meru view, someone else’s space, hungry, lonely, wet cement, pretty plants, wet bathrooms, suitcases
new house:
open, spacious, COUCH, kitchen, dishes, closets, reliable electrical outlets, OUR SPACE.
MORE IMPORTANTLY... I have posted facebook pictures.
old house:
damp, cold, dark, cows, mt. meru view, someone else’s space, hungry, lonely, wet cement, pretty plants, wet bathrooms, suitcases
new house:
open, spacious, COUCH, kitchen, dishes, closets, reliable electrical outlets, OUR SPACE.
MORE IMPORTANTLY... I have posted facebook pictures.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Directions: How to get to ICTR from Mama Lydia's Guest House
No joke... this is how we get to work every day!
Go straight up the driveway past the cows and banana tree.
Walk through the wet cement, at end of driveway turn right.
Go straight to the end of Kanisa Road, passing the Catholic youth hostel on your right and salon sign on your left.
Turn right onto Old Moshe Road and pass the Anglican church on your right (where we are brand new choir members!)
Keep straight. Say "shikamo" to sweet elderly lady sitting on your right who will smile beautifully and respond "marahaba". Sometimes give her fruit from breakfast.
Pass over bridge quickly. Take note of scenic water fall and forest to your right while using peripheral vision to scan under bridge for thiefs. Do not stop to take pictures.
Keep straight and pass SUPER DOLL sign and Goodyear tire store on right and Arusha's five star hotel with GREAT coffee on left.
Decline dala dala (giant van taxi) ride and pass through masses of waiting patrons.
Bear right through Onyx Petrol station. Clock tower will be on your left.
Wave to rafikis (friends) sitting on wall across the street. Continue straight past Kase bookstore on your right and wish you could stop to peruse. Must be mindful of cars aiming at you on this street.
Continue straight on balance beam (aka curb so you can avoid traffic). Politely wait for street sweeper with bamboo broom and wheel barrow to let you pass.
Say mambo vipi (whats up) to taxi drivers and decline ride. Wave to tree of loud sleeping bat colony.
Pass taxidermist sign ("We tan dip and ship,") storks and turtles on left, continue straight through German fort museum. Upon exiting say hello to cultural center artisians on right. Typically a surprise here. Past surprises include giant sand hill in walkway or wedding.
Say mambo vipi to taxi drivers and decline ride. Continue straight while watching security guard use long mirror to check underneath select cars. Wonder how they select cars.
Pass right into security check point, put bags through x-ray, set off metal detector and be waved through casually. Badge does not work at this gate so you will be let through without identification.
Go straight up the driveway past the cows and banana tree.
Walk through the wet cement, at end of driveway turn right.
Go straight to the end of Kanisa Road, passing the Catholic youth hostel on your right and salon sign on your left.
Turn right onto Old Moshe Road and pass the Anglican church on your right (where we are brand new choir members!)
Keep straight. Say "shikamo" to sweet elderly lady sitting on your right who will smile beautifully and respond "marahaba". Sometimes give her fruit from breakfast.
Pass over bridge quickly. Take note of scenic water fall and forest to your right while using peripheral vision to scan under bridge for thiefs. Do not stop to take pictures.
Keep straight and pass SUPER DOLL sign and Goodyear tire store on right and Arusha's five star hotel with GREAT coffee on left.
Decline dala dala (giant van taxi) ride and pass through masses of waiting patrons.
Bear right through Onyx Petrol station. Clock tower will be on your left.
Wave to rafikis (friends) sitting on wall across the street. Continue straight past Kase bookstore on your right and wish you could stop to peruse. Must be mindful of cars aiming at you on this street.
Continue straight on balance beam (aka curb so you can avoid traffic). Politely wait for street sweeper with bamboo broom and wheel barrow to let you pass.
Say mambo vipi (whats up) to taxi drivers and decline ride. Wave to tree of loud sleeping bat colony.
Pass taxidermist sign ("We tan dip and ship,") storks and turtles on left, continue straight through German fort museum. Upon exiting say hello to cultural center artisians on right. Typically a surprise here. Past surprises include giant sand hill in walkway or wedding.
Say mambo vipi to taxi drivers and decline ride. Continue straight while watching security guard use long mirror to check underneath select cars. Wonder how they select cars.
Pass right into security check point, put bags through x-ray, set off metal detector and be waved through casually. Badge does not work at this gate so you will be let through without identification.
Monday, July 13, 2009
pole sana
I have been debating whether to share my most recent experience online. If possible, I would call each of you individually and explain what has happened so that you would have the personal assurance that I am fine.
I ask you please, if you are someone that cares about me, read this entry in its entirety. Trust all of my words, including those that say I am well. And as much you are able, try to understand the circumstances through a lens that is objective.
I have already talked to my parents; they know all the details. I am hoping they are able to stand in as my vocal reassurance if you need any.
As I have already shared with you, Tanzanians have been nothing but welcoming since I arrived. Not only hospitable, but also generous, both with time and explanations of how to go about daily life in Arusha.
Friday night my traveling companions and good friends Selina and Eunice and I joined a group of UN interns for dinner at a ritzy Ethiopian restaurant. The three of us arrived early and had a great meal of injera and beans and vegetables and beef. I enjoyed our time with the other interns so much! We were savoring a glass of wine and the other interns were waiting on their food when we heard a loud noise we weren’t quite able to place. “Was that the oven?” one of the interns suggested. We look around us curiously trying to place the noise.
Suddenly, we hear the noise again, but magnified, as a man runs up onto the porch and shoots an ak47 into the ceiling, “Everyone down!” He shouts. We all rush to take cover under our tables. I didn’t even notice the pain of sitting with my sandaled feet underneath me on the hard tile. I was too focused on the sight of the man with the gun in front of me, gathering purses from the floor with his feet, while he and his partner exchanged yells in another language. I saw his face, but don’t remember it, aside from the concentration and adrenaline etched into it. Then I made myself look down at the floor. As far as I know he never looked at one of us, he was able to cut our humanity clean away from us in what perhaps he considered a business transaction. I was holding onto Selina next to me. We were both shaking. My new friend Rebecca was holding onto me and praying aloud, “We came to do a good thing, please protect us”. A demand? A plea? A bargain? 2 more shots were fired, but no one was hurt. Though the last shot fired killed the parrot in the window feet away from us. The sound of it instantly muted my hearing. I tried to prepare myself for any possible sight or feeling that may come next. Thankfully, once they had all they wanted they ran out. We stayed underneath the tables for a couple minutes until someone was sure they had gone completely. When I stood up, I noticed that my purse, despite being bright blue and orange and sequined, was still laying in the middle of the floor. What in the world? So I still have my passport, my ipod, camera, wallet, etc. I only lost my phone. Apparently we were supposed to be briefed on what not to carry by UN security when we first arrived. Though Id say that was sufficient enough briefing.
Soon after, the police and UN security arrived to take care of us. We were escorted to a friend’s place so we could all stay together. In fact, I believe we were technically squatters that night- staying in a hotel room within a very secure villa that our friend has access to.
I think I slept a total of 30 minutes. The adrenaline just kept me thinking.
What desperation allowed someone to take our dignity and safety like that?
Why wasn’t I angrier?
Why didn’t they hurt us?
How many people in the world experience this kind of fear on a daily basis? (This thought alone was quite humbling)
I believe this kind of thing happens everywhere. And it troubles me to tell you, because this type of crime is NOT representative of Tanzanians. Our new friend Peter helped us all day Saturday with his many connections, replacing our phones, finding safe atms and restaurants, and filing a police report at the station. Everywhere people are friendly and want to take us on as their sisters or daughters. Our new friend Alfred spent a couple days last week searching for houses we might be able to move to.
Anyone who hears about the restaurant mishap shakes their head with regret and sighs, “pole, pole sana.” (I’m very sorry.)
SO now to find the balance between caution and normal life.
Of course, there are so many other things I would love to share with you about my experience here! If you are interested or have time, check Eunice and Selina's blogs on the right side of my page for more stories, or at least the same stories through different eyes. Eunice has a great one right now, about our experience with with a Tanzanian born Indian man who took us on a tour of Arusha that included an undercover arrest....
I ask you please, if you are someone that cares about me, read this entry in its entirety. Trust all of my words, including those that say I am well. And as much you are able, try to understand the circumstances through a lens that is objective.
I have already talked to my parents; they know all the details. I am hoping they are able to stand in as my vocal reassurance if you need any.
As I have already shared with you, Tanzanians have been nothing but welcoming since I arrived. Not only hospitable, but also generous, both with time and explanations of how to go about daily life in Arusha.
Friday night my traveling companions and good friends Selina and Eunice and I joined a group of UN interns for dinner at a ritzy Ethiopian restaurant. The three of us arrived early and had a great meal of injera and beans and vegetables and beef. I enjoyed our time with the other interns so much! We were savoring a glass of wine and the other interns were waiting on their food when we heard a loud noise we weren’t quite able to place. “Was that the oven?” one of the interns suggested. We look around us curiously trying to place the noise.
Suddenly, we hear the noise again, but magnified, as a man runs up onto the porch and shoots an ak47 into the ceiling, “Everyone down!” He shouts. We all rush to take cover under our tables. I didn’t even notice the pain of sitting with my sandaled feet underneath me on the hard tile. I was too focused on the sight of the man with the gun in front of me, gathering purses from the floor with his feet, while he and his partner exchanged yells in another language. I saw his face, but don’t remember it, aside from the concentration and adrenaline etched into it. Then I made myself look down at the floor. As far as I know he never looked at one of us, he was able to cut our humanity clean away from us in what perhaps he considered a business transaction. I was holding onto Selina next to me. We were both shaking. My new friend Rebecca was holding onto me and praying aloud, “We came to do a good thing, please protect us”. A demand? A plea? A bargain? 2 more shots were fired, but no one was hurt. Though the last shot fired killed the parrot in the window feet away from us. The sound of it instantly muted my hearing. I tried to prepare myself for any possible sight or feeling that may come next. Thankfully, once they had all they wanted they ran out. We stayed underneath the tables for a couple minutes until someone was sure they had gone completely. When I stood up, I noticed that my purse, despite being bright blue and orange and sequined, was still laying in the middle of the floor. What in the world? So I still have my passport, my ipod, camera, wallet, etc. I only lost my phone. Apparently we were supposed to be briefed on what not to carry by UN security when we first arrived. Though Id say that was sufficient enough briefing.
Soon after, the police and UN security arrived to take care of us. We were escorted to a friend’s place so we could all stay together. In fact, I believe we were technically squatters that night- staying in a hotel room within a very secure villa that our friend has access to.
I think I slept a total of 30 minutes. The adrenaline just kept me thinking.
What desperation allowed someone to take our dignity and safety like that?
Why wasn’t I angrier?
Why didn’t they hurt us?
How many people in the world experience this kind of fear on a daily basis? (This thought alone was quite humbling)
I believe this kind of thing happens everywhere. And it troubles me to tell you, because this type of crime is NOT representative of Tanzanians. Our new friend Peter helped us all day Saturday with his many connections, replacing our phones, finding safe atms and restaurants, and filing a police report at the station. Everywhere people are friendly and want to take us on as their sisters or daughters. Our new friend Alfred spent a couple days last week searching for houses we might be able to move to.
Anyone who hears about the restaurant mishap shakes their head with regret and sighs, “pole, pole sana.” (I’m very sorry.)
SO now to find the balance between caution and normal life.
Of course, there are so many other things I would love to share with you about my experience here! If you are interested or have time, check Eunice and Selina's blogs on the right side of my page for more stories, or at least the same stories through different eyes. Eunice has a great one right now, about our experience with with a Tanzanian born Indian man who took us on a tour of Arusha that included an undercover arrest....
Saturday, July 11, 2009
unforeseen circumstances..
All the things I had been planning to write are confused and mixed up in my head today. There is this dichotomy that exists within Tanzania that has left my mind reeling.
All is well and will expand as soon as I can.
All is well and will expand as soon as I can.
Friday, July 10, 2009
working for a big organization in Tanzania...
I attempted blogging yesterday, during TWO of my breaks. Each time my computer shut off. I thought the executive powers were telling me something. no blogging, even IF this is your only source of internet today, your work is done and your family is waiting impatiently to hear about your adventures.
Then it occured to me... my computer was actually shutting off everytime the power surged. A few of you may know how often that happens in Africa... So I put in a request for a surge protector. Today came and still no surge protector. So I was creating an excel file on a pad of paper and then during periods of good power typing them quickly into a table on my computer. I think today my computer shut off about 4 times before 11am when I gave up on it completely. Around 1230 a man came in to look at it. (Mind you he was the 3rd person representing a 3rd department to come try to fix the issue). He shuffled my furniture a bit, looked around... and then he did this magic thing. He unplugged the computer and plugged it into a different socket. a socket that was apparently MADE to withstand Tanzanian power surges.
So there is my story for today. tomorrow will be another good one, I promise.
and turns out we may have found a WONDERFUL apartment... we are just waiting for the management to kick the current inhabitants out... :0)
Then it occured to me... my computer was actually shutting off everytime the power surged. A few of you may know how often that happens in Africa... So I put in a request for a surge protector. Today came and still no surge protector. So I was creating an excel file on a pad of paper and then during periods of good power typing them quickly into a table on my computer. I think today my computer shut off about 4 times before 11am when I gave up on it completely. Around 1230 a man came in to look at it. (Mind you he was the 3rd person representing a 3rd department to come try to fix the issue). He shuffled my furniture a bit, looked around... and then he did this magic thing. He unplugged the computer and plugged it into a different socket. a socket that was apparently MADE to withstand Tanzanian power surges.
So there is my story for today. tomorrow will be another good one, I promise.
and turns out we may have found a WONDERFUL apartment... we are just waiting for the management to kick the current inhabitants out... :0)
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
karibu ni Tanzania!
Tanzania has been nothing but welcoming since we set foot on her beautiful soil.
I am busy with remembering names, time and money conversions, how to say good morning, and the way to walk between work and home. Below is the clock tower that has become one of our landmarks on the walk. The flat screen t.v.'s show "Tanzania National Park" video footage.
We found out last night, while chatting with the owner of our guest house Mama Lydia, that our rooms are not intended for long stays. In fact, 3 weeks is the longest someone has stayed in them. This explains why we have no drawers and only 5 hangers. Mama Lydia explained to us that she was actually expecting us to use this as a transitional place until we could find somewhere to make a home. In the meantime, we bought a few large wicker baskets to put our clothes in. We are hoping to find a place in the next few weeks, before Mama Lydia's daughter has her wedding at the guest house. We are invited to the wedding (yay!) but will have to move to a hostel so Mama Lydia can accomodate her family. Below is a picture of me trying to stay warm in the room Selina and I share.
Our UN internship started yesterday! We were briefed on our task to help prepare for the impending closure of the tribunal. I could not be more pleased with the description! We were given our UN security badges, and a binder full of readings to catch us up on the tribunal and our assignment. We were told to destroy it at the end of our time with the UN. Tomorrow we will have our offices AND a letter of acceptance to the internship. hmm. interstingly enough, the two men who would be capable of supervising our task have both resigned in the last month. The one who briefed us yesterday leaves in two weeks, but has agreed to supervise us remotely despite his resignation, from the US of all places. We are quite impressed with his comittment to us as interns.
My fingers are sufficiently frozen so here I will end. Still trying to figure out the computer situation.. so I appreciate your patience with updates. We have access to internet via the dial up computers at our school. (see below) It might be easier for us to update on weekends from a wireless cafe.
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