Monday, July 13, 2009

pole sana

I have been debating whether to share my most recent experience online. If possible, I would call each of you individually and explain what has happened so that you would have the personal assurance that I am fine.

I ask you please, if you are someone that cares about me, read this entry in its entirety. Trust all of my words, including those that say I am well. And as much you are able, try to understand the circumstances through a lens that is objective.

I have already talked to my parents; they know all the details. I am hoping they are able to stand in as my vocal reassurance if you need any.

As I have already shared with you, Tanzanians have been nothing but welcoming since I arrived. Not only hospitable, but also generous, both with time and explanations of how to go about daily life in Arusha.

Friday night my traveling companions and good friends Selina and Eunice and I joined a group of UN interns for dinner at a ritzy Ethiopian restaurant. The three of us arrived early and had a great meal of injera and beans and vegetables and beef. I enjoyed our time with the other interns so much! We were savoring a glass of wine and the other interns were waiting on their food when we heard a loud noise we weren’t quite able to place. “Was that the oven?” one of the interns suggested. We look around us curiously trying to place the noise.

Suddenly, we hear the noise again, but magnified, as a man runs up onto the porch and shoots an ak47 into the ceiling, “Everyone down!” He shouts. We all rush to take cover under our tables. I didn’t even notice the pain of sitting with my sandaled feet underneath me on the hard tile. I was too focused on the sight of the man with the gun in front of me, gathering purses from the floor with his feet, while he and his partner exchanged yells in another language. I saw his face, but don’t remember it, aside from the concentration and adrenaline etched into it. Then I made myself look down at the floor. As far as I know he never looked at one of us, he was able to cut our humanity clean away from us in what perhaps he considered a business transaction. I was holding onto Selina next to me. We were both shaking. My new friend Rebecca was holding onto me and praying aloud, “We came to do a good thing, please protect us”. A demand? A plea? A bargain? 2 more shots were fired, but no one was hurt. Though the last shot fired killed the parrot in the window feet away from us. The sound of it instantly muted my hearing. I tried to prepare myself for any possible sight or feeling that may come next. Thankfully, once they had all they wanted they ran out. We stayed underneath the tables for a couple minutes until someone was sure they had gone completely. When I stood up, I noticed that my purse, despite being bright blue and orange and sequined, was still laying in the middle of the floor. What in the world? So I still have my passport, my ipod, camera, wallet, etc. I only lost my phone. Apparently we were supposed to be briefed on what not to carry by UN security when we first arrived. Though Id say that was sufficient enough briefing.

Soon after, the police and UN security arrived to take care of us. We were escorted to a friend’s place so we could all stay together. In fact, I believe we were technically squatters that night- staying in a hotel room within a very secure villa that our friend has access to.

I think I slept a total of 30 minutes. The adrenaline just kept me thinking.

What desperation allowed someone to take our dignity and safety like that?

Why wasn’t I angrier?

Why didn’t they hurt us?

How many people in the world experience this kind of fear on a daily basis? (This thought alone was quite humbling)

I believe this kind of thing happens everywhere. And it troubles me to tell you, because this type of crime is NOT representative of Tanzanians. Our new friend Peter helped us all day Saturday with his many connections, replacing our phones, finding safe atms and restaurants, and filing a police report at the station. Everywhere people are friendly and want to take us on as their sisters or daughters. Our new friend Alfred spent a couple days last week searching for houses we might be able to move to.

Anyone who hears about the restaurant mishap shakes their head with regret and sighs, “pole, pole sana.” (I’m very sorry.)

SO now to find the balance between caution and normal life.

Of course, there are so many other things I would love to share with you about my experience here! If you are interested or have time, check Eunice and Selina's blogs on the right side of my page for more stories, or at least the same stories through different eyes. Eunice has a great one right now, about our experience with with a Tanzanian born Indian man who took us on a tour of Arusha that included an undercover arrest....

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